That's Sew Special - Tips

Trim the quilt batting and backing about 1/8th of an inch from the quilt top and binding raw edges to allow for
filling the completed binding. Turn the binding over the new edge, and press for best results. Your binding fold
should cover the stitching line made when you sewed the binding on. Hand or machine stitch the binding fold to the
backing. If hand stitching, an applique stitch is most commonly used with small, tight stitches in matching thread.

If this last step to finishing your quilt seems daunting, talk to your longarm quilter about adding this service to your
invoice. Most professional longarm quilters will provide this service for a reasonable cost. If you want to attempt it
yourself, just follow the directions below, clicking on the thumbnail pictures to see a larger size photo. These are
instructions for straightgrain, double fold binding. This is the easiest type of binding to make and apply for beginners.

Prepare your binding strips first. Cut your binding strips 2 1/2 inches wide if you are new at binding. Experts can work
with 2 inch binding, and some quilters prefer 2 1/4 inch binding strips. 2 1/2 inches is a bit on the wide side, but a good
beginner width. The width of the finished binding will be about 3/4 inch cut 2 1/2 strips. Whatever you choose, all of the
steps are the same. It only affects the trimming and turning and finished width.

To figure the number of strips to cut to make your binding, add the length plus the width and double it. That number is the
linear inches around your quilt. Divide by that number by 40 inches. (40 inches is the width of the fabric.) Round that
number up to be sure you will have enough and cut your strips across the width of the fabric. Take care to cut the strips
across the grain straight. If you open the strip up and find a peak at the fold, the strip should not be used since it will only
cause you trouble.

Sew the strips together with diagonal seams. To do this, you place the first strip on your table right side UP, looking at one
end of the strip and the length of the strip runs to your left. Place the next strip right side DOWN on that strip but the
long tail going down in your lap or the floor, making a "T" leaving a little over hang on both ends (see figure "A".) Then
using a ruler, make a diagonal line with a marking tool from corner to corner (see figures "B" & "C").   Pin along drawn line
or sides and sew ON the drawn line (see figure "D"). Then trim 1/4" from seam (see figure "E") and cut off "bunny ears"
(see figure "F").   Repeat with all strips. Press seams OPEN (see figure "G").

If you are using a light fabric, be sure to use a pencil. Pen marks may be able to be seen through a light fabric.

Once all strips are together, press strips in half WRONG SIDES together.

If you make your binding before getting your top quilted, your longarm quilter can attach your binding to the quilt top for
a minimal charge when she quilts your quilt, or you may choose to sew it on yourself.

To sew it on yourself, match the raw edges of the binding strip with the raw edge of the quilt top, leaving about 6 to 8
inches of a tail free before you start sewing, and being careful not to pull or stretch the binding strip while sewing it down
with a 1/4inch seam.   Miter the corners as you go, by stopping the seam 1/4 inch from the edge (see figures "H"), flipping
the binding away from the quilt top (see figure "I"), and flipping it back on the corner to make the miter (see figures "J").
When you get to the last side of the quilt, stop sewing about 10 inches before you started sewing the binding, leaving an
area that you can work in to sew the ends together smoothly. (see figures "K")

This last join is important, and you don't want anyone to be able to tell which join is the last when you are all done, so I
added alot of pictures to help clarify what I mean. There are many successful methods, and this is just one I use.

Begin by making a diagonal cut on one end of the set of tails you have left. In figure "L", I have cut the tail on our right,
and matched the diagonal to the others in my binding strip. Open the strip before cutting it, and use the 45 degree mark
lined up on the edge of the strip to cut accurately. The remaining tail should be long enough to reach about half way across
the unsewn portion of the quilt edge.

Now put the binding back in place where it will go on the edge of the quilt, tucking the uncut end into the cut end (see
figure M). Place a pen mark there, where the two ends meet. Pulling them apart again, and opening the uncut end up, your
end should look a lot like figure "N" below.

Take the uncut end to the cutting mat, opening it up so you can see it flat on the cutting mat. Using a ruler with a 45 degree
line and a half inch line, line the 45 inch line on the edge of the strip, and the half inch line with the pen or pencil mark that
you made, making the strip one half inch LONGER than the original mark (see figures "O" and "P"). Cut it on that angle.
This is why I love the Creative Grids Rulers. They allow me to cut a diagonal half inch.

Figure "Q" shows the two strips, cut and ready to sew.
Figure "R" shows them pinned together at an offset, ready to sew. Notice the 'bunnie ears' at the end of the seam.
Figure "S", a bit blurry I know, shows the seam complete, and "T" is a shot of my thumbnail as I fingerpress the seam
open to eliminate the bulk.

Lay the strip back on the quilt top, checking that it fits.
Adjust it if necessary, and pin to sew it down.

Figures "H"

Figure "I"

Figures "J"

Figures "K"

Figure "L"

Figure "Q"

Figure "N"

Figure "P"

Figure "M"

Figure "O"